Sunday, April 27, 2008

Control

Coming and going to Misfits

On the way to Misfits, the driver was an alcoholic. He wasn't drinking on duty, nothing nasty like that. He told the story of going to the hospital many times with his damaged liver. He still drank at home - he drinks a lot less and his wife and daughters control bhis drinking a lot. He said that he needed this control. Without it, he would have killed himself years ago or caused terrible problems for his family.

On the way home, it was a kojin taxi. He had been a kojin taxi for over 20 years. So you drive whenever you feel like it?
Oh no, I set myself a schedule. Everyday (except Saturday), I drive from lunchtime until 3 in the morning. People are weak. The only way to lead a good life is to impose discipline.

One gets his control from the people around him. The other gets his control from the routines that he sets. Where do the rest of us get our control?

Flatulent encounters

I was on my way home from a rock and roll that we had played in Sakae. We found a friendly driver who was willing to stop for us on the narrow crowded streets of Nishiki even when he saw the huge pile of speakers, mic stands and other musical gear that is technically known as stuff. I spend most of my life carrying around stuff. Boxes of books are also known as stuff.

I was in a bit of a cranky humour because I had carried in all the stuff, but it seeemed to work for everyone else but me. My guitar amp was stuck on some crazy reverb effect that couldn't be turned off. Ah, give me the simple type of amp that just has three buttons. In the shop, it seemed like such a good idea to have an amp with 400 effects, but since I only ever want a clean sound they do tend to just get in the way of actually playing properly. I ended up not using my 20kg amp at all, but borrowing someone else's. Similarly, I didn't actually use the beautiful Roland acoustic amp as a monitor. Just like the last show, it keep producing ear-damaging feedback.


Tomo then tried to talk to the driver. Tomo's surname is Shagger, but that's a story for another time.
"Hello".
I didn't know who Tomo was talking to. We had already said hello several hours later. I assumed he was checking that he was still in touch with himself. We had all had a few beers and that seemed like a sensible thing to do.
No, he was talking to the taxi-driver.
"He's ignoring me," said Tomo.
"Hmm, that may be because you're speaking in English," I said. "Maybe you should try Japanese."
"No, he's ignoring me. He's not a nice man."

Of course, he was actually a very nice man. Because when I accidently let out a beer-inspired fart, the driver laughed and turned around to say "ii ne." Nice one - ah yes, I agreed that it was a nice one.

It's so hard to get appreciation for the work that goes into some things, like carrying stuff and producing fine flatulence. He was indeed a nice man.

The Taxi Theorist

Are you busy?
- Yes, it's hanami season now. That's the season when Japanese like to go out and sit under the trees and drink. It's a uniquely Japanese phenomenon.
Actually, I was out there myself last night. It's always fun. There was a big group sitting next to us under the next tree having a formal banquet. They had brought out tables and formal cutlery.
- Ah yes, that's what foreigners are used to. Japanese sit on tatami but foreigners sit on chairs.
Well, actually it was the exact opposite.
- Yes, yes, the Japanese sat on the ground and you sat at tables.
No, it was the opposite of that.

I finally got through to him, so he adapted the theory.

- Ah yes, that's because foreigners who come to Japan want to experience the Japanese way. That's why they are here. And the Japanese, they want to experience another culture, too, and that's why they sit at tables. Everyone wants the thing that they don't have.

Interesting about-face.

So, is there anything foreign that you like yourself?
- Well, if I were younger, it might be different, but I'm 61 and foreign things don't really appeal to me. Japanese young people today have lost the bushido spirit.
Really. If you were live somewhere outside Japan, where would it be?
- I'd live in The Phillipines or Vietnam where men are still strong. Young Japanese have no respect for the strength of men. When I was growing up, men were strong and admired. Women were looked down on because they were weak. In the Phillipines, they still believe that men are strong, and a man can walk with pride. In my father's day, we looked down on women. We were strong.
Are you married?
- Yes.
And how do you get along with her?
- Well, we're not exactly equal in status. She is still weaker, but we are more equal than the older generation. Sometimes, I will go for a walk with her. In my father's time, a man would never walk with a woman. That would show weakness. Now young people walk beside each other all the time. They have lost respect for men. A man would have been ashamed in the past to walk beside a woman. That's why I still don't believe in lady-first, although the young people do that. Where are you from?
I'm from Europe.

I don't know why I say I'm from Europe these days. I used to say Ireland, but I got tired about hearing about the program that they had watched about the Irish countryside. Europe is too big to be easily classified and allows more ambiguity. Being ambiguous is good for a taxi chat because these guys can walk themselves into more dangerous alleys of conversation.

- Ah Europe. Then you're different from the United States. Over there, they all believe in lady-first. You don't all follow that in Europe, do you?
Well, we do a bit you know.
- That's because Europe is like Japan. Japan is based on the bushido system. Europe is based on the feudal system, so you understand the difference between different groups in society. In America, the people came from all sorts of different places, so they are far more diverse than Europe.

Indeed, that's why they all speak different languages and don't have the same chain stores in replicated malls :)

Ah yes, theorism is a moving feast. Moving in the taxi, I was sad to leave it, but the driver helped me unload my eight heavy boxes and seemed extremely happy with the 20 yen tip.

Taishokkin

He was a friendly fellow and we got on to the topic of retirement. It seems to crop up in all kinds of places now that I am heading towards 40. My friends and I are no longer afraid to talk about exciting things such as pensions.

The driver is 58 years old and he's facing mandatory retirement in two years. After 18 years of service at the company, he will get a taishokkin of 3 million yen. After that he can work part-time at the company for as long as he likes. Many of the drivers in Japan work until their mid-70's, but of course, the pay is much lower for a part-timer than for a full-timer. Thinking about my age and his age, I realized that he started driving a taxi when he was about the same age as I am now.

He wasn't happy about the 3 million yen sum. I didn't know what to say. I don't even know if it's normal outside Japan to receive a lump sum when you leave the company. Here, it is most defintiely normal. For my university job, I will apparently receive a month's salary for every year that I have worked there. That money is taxed at a lower rate than regular salary, so it works out much better than the one twelfth wage increase that it implies. Just the other day, I discovered that I receive that money even if I don't stay around until the mandatory retirement age. It certainly beats the idea of receiving a gold watch on leaving.

What is fair? Why should a company be paying you a lump sum when you're leaving? Don't they pay you your salary for all those years - it seems a little tough on them to have to pay you a large lump sum just when you are leaving.

Interesting fact: statistically, people who work for other people earn more per hour than people who run their own companies. Even anomalies like Bill Gates don't manage to overturn this.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Shitamachi

We got into the taxi as we walked out of the Hama Rikyu gardens. Beautiful gardens right in the center of Tokyo with skyscrapers towering over the manicured trees.

He pulled in very enthusiastically as if he were happy to see us. His seat colours were different. I thought that he was a kojin taxi, but no, it was just that his company is small.

His company was based an hour outside of the city in the countryside on the border of Saitama prefecture. Every day he came into Tokyo to work.

He had only been working as a taxi driver for two weeks.

For the last 12 years, he worked as a driver for an executive, actually the owner of a company.

Up early in the morning, on call until late at night as the executive went to meet clients.

The driver didn't develop a friendship with the owner. Of course, he answered questions about himself when appropriate, but he was never allowed to enter into the state where he could talk freely about his own life. It was all about the owner.

The owner was a difficult man. Before he had started doing the driving, other drivers had done it. Each quit after two or three months. They just couldn't take working for this guy. He was 'muzukashii' - a difficult man. Not 'chotto muzukashii', a polite version which toned it down.

He would lose his temper over tiny things and shout at the driver. Before the driver started this job, he knew about this. He had thought about it very seriously and wondered whether he could take it. Finally, he decided that by taking the job he could learn something important.

So did you learn anything? (benkyo ni natta ka?)

Yes, I learned that there are different kinds of people and different ways of thinking.

I asked him, "If you were reborn, would you like to be the driver again or to become the owner. Obviously, he had lots of money".

He started talking about shitamachi and I thought that he had misunderstood my question. He explained the meaning of shitamachi. It literally means 'downtown', but it usually means the poorer areas of a city. He said in New York, it would be ... I finished his sentence for him, "Harlem, the black areas".
- Yes, that's right. In shitamachi, people have bigger hearts and more empathy with other people. In the tokai (the city), people only care about themselves. In shitamachi, if someone else is crying or upset, they try to help them.

I began to understand what he was saying. He was clearly from a poorer background himself.

- "Was the owner happy," I asked

- No, not at all.
This time, his answer was very clear.
- He didn't care about anyone else but himself. He didn't even care for his wife and children. If he believed something, that was all that mattered. He didn't care about anyone. If I were reborn, I'd like to have the same life, with the heart of shitamachi.

As we reached Tokyo station, a huge railway station at the heart of one of the biggest most impersonal cities in the world, we wished each other luck in developing the big heart of shitamachi.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Falling down

He was a rather round man. You don't really see so many overweight people in Japan. The average person is pretty slim their entire life. Of course, some women do get a serious complex and become anorexic, but in general people's weight is healthy.

This guy didn't look quite so healthy. He was about 45 but had the veins on his face of an older man. When we flagged him, he was about to go into a little public toilet in a park where taxi-drivers often take a break during the quiet hours of the day.

I asked if he was working. Many of the drivers will go ahead with their break and don't mind losing a customer. This guy wasn't going to let his toiletary duties get in the way of business. I kept saying we'd wait a minute, but he ushered us into the car and off we went.

His father's family is from Nagano, so he spent some time up there when he was a kid. He wouldn't like to live there now though. Too much snow. In his father's old house, they used to get two meters of snow. Unbelieveable for me - I've never seen more than a foot of snow. Funny - I was just up in Nagano and Niigata the other day. We saw some heavy snow, but the really heavy stuff seems to fall out in the country. I guess that's a good reason it's in the country - there was too much snow to build a city out there!

But no, he wouldn't like to live their now. He said that he was fat and might slip, fall down, and crack his head open. We all laughed at that. People are strange creatures. Why do we laugh at misfortune or the thought of it?

But the people up north in his father's generation were tough. They used to have huge columns in their houses to hold them up. A lot of houses built recently have been suffering stress problems and some have even fallen down.

People in the past knew how to keep things standing.

Monday, February 11, 2008

43%

Back to Nagoya after the weekend on the road singing about potatoes.

There was a big queue of taxis at the station divided into two lines. One is for the big cars and one is for the small cars. I would imagine that the small cars do much better, but I must ask them sometime.

I got into the first car in the small car line. It was a kojin taxi. I'm getting more of those these days. They must be happy about that because they get almost all of their business from road and station pickups. They have a musen dispatch service that is run by their group, but it doesn't seem to give them that much work. The other benefit from paying into the group seems to be the annual trip to an onsen.

43% - that's what the average taxidriver gets to take home out of your fare. So when you get in a taxi that's been waiting outside the station for 40 minutes and you ask him to take you around the corner, don't be surprised if he doesn't look happy. It's not your problem, but it's nice to remember that he only gets 43% of the 560 yen that you pay out. That's about 241 yen. Certainly not enough to buy a cup of coffee at Starbucks and not even enough for him to buy his daily pack of cigerettes even if they are among the cheapest in the developed world.

Becoming a kojin taxi driver takes 10 years of experience with a company. With deregulation of the industry, taxi companies can increase the number of drivers and cars as much as they like. It only takes a month to become a taxi driver. Laid-off from salaryman land one month, working as a low-paid driver the next. The companies treat their drivers pretty well really - providing cheap accomodation for the many drivers who come from the country to work in the big city. In Nagoya, most of the drivers of the eight thousand taxis seem to come from Kyushu.

My driver tonight was from Nagoya though. He had worked for 35 years in some kind of architectural business. Then he had worked for 10 years at Tsubame taxi company - now he had become a kojin. He looked far too young for all that experience. Something must have been lost in the translation. As well as the 10 years experience, a would-be kojin driver also needs to pass a test.

You aren't allowed have a crash when you're working for a company. Well, at least not a crash that you're responsible for. Otherwise, you'll never have the chance to become a kojin driver. You're also not allowed to commit any crimes. Interestingly, once you become a kojin driver, you can crash as many times as you like and they won't take away your kojin licence. I don't think that you're allowed to commit as many crimes as you like. For that you need to become a politician.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Annoyed in Fukuoka

I've had so many good chats with taxi drivers that I sometimes forget my manners. Four of us jumped into a taxi at Fukuoka station to take us to the 5th hotel. The 5th hotel is a luxurious place. There was a huge marble bath and even with a collosal double bed in the room, there was still room for a 48 inch TV, a humidifier, lots of other gadgets and lots of space too. Of course, it was an accident that we were staying there at all. The company rep who booked it was new in the country and wasn't quite aware of all the cultural implications of the Internet website photos. It was so luxurious because it used to be a love hotel, or what the Japanese more carefully refer to as a 'fashion hotel' or 'boutique hotel' these days. Love hotels are so much nicer than regular business hotels. I can live with the scent of previous liasons in exchange for all that extra space and comfort.
We took a walk over to another part of the 5th hotel and saw the people walking in two by two, just as if they were entered Noah's arc. It was so romantic to sit there watching them walk by, stopping on their way to their true love tryst to select the room from among the photos on the electronic screen in the lobby. When I looked at the charge sheet for the hotel and saw that they still rent by the morning, afternoon, evening or overnight stay, I realized that there will need to be a 6th hotel before the love hotel business really closes down.

So anyway, on our way to the hotel, we had so much luggage that I put my guitar into the front seat with me.

When I tried to engage the taxidriver in conversation, he was very abrupt and said "I can't see anything on the left. It's very dangerous".

I apologized. We got out and moved on. Sometimes that's the only thing to do.

The Joy of Mergers in Okayama

He used to own and run a small telephone maintenance business. It was good work, but then there were mergers and there were more mergers, and soon he found that his company had ended up four steps away from the customer. Multi-level non-work is a very Japanese solution to recession. The customer requests the product from a major company. The major company subcontracts the actual work to another company who sub-sub-contract it, until it has finally been sub-sub-sub-contracted to a small family operation like the one that my taxi driver ran. The one he ran until the unification in the industry meant that his profit lines had been cut to a meaningless figure - and he gave it up for the simpler life of driving a taxi.

Only the big places remain. There is no meaning left for the small companies.

As usual, I had heard the same story the night before in a different context. An American friend runs a computer software company. Much of his work is at the fifth step removed from the customer. On one assignment, he went into the major company and saw 120 programmers sitting around. Why do they need me if they have 120 programmers?

I find it hard to answer that question. Why shift the work further down the gravy chain, adding nothing except your own percercentage? Is it diffusion of responsibility? Is it laziness? Is it greed? Is it a feasible feature of our future?

Finding the Simple Life

He was only 42 years old, just four years older than me, but he seemed to have achieved so much more wisdom. Perhaps, it is in the next four years that I will gain his quiet demeanour. Somehow, I doubt it. I admired his quiet style as he drove me towards the shinkansen exit of Nagoya station.

Like so many other taxi drivers, he used to work as a truck driver. The money is good and although the hours are long, it has its compensation. This guy liked the long solitary drives from 11pm until 6am. He liked the absence of colleagues or nagging superiors. He was his own boss in his own truck.

He quit because it was time. You can'T be a truck driver for ever. It's tough on the body and it wears you down. You can drive a cab for ever, so it was time.

His salary was halved, but he doesn't mind. It's a simpler life. He gave up eating out and drinking out. Now he drinks at home and cooks himself some yaki soba.

The simple life is good.

Fake Chinamen in Nagasaki

When I arrived into Nagasaki, by a lucky coincidence, it was the third day of the lantern festival. The Lantern festival is a lighting up of the streets of the city, carried out by the Chinese residents until 12 years ago, but now embraced by the whole city. My driver was a member of the Lucky Group and we felt especially lucky because he was dressed a fabulous red Chinese outfit.

He wasn't entirely happy to be wearing it. The suit belonged to the company but he had to pay for the cleaning cost himself and it was pretty hot during the two weeks of the Lantern Festival. It wasn't strictly complsory to wear the suits, but most of the drivers in his group did. Probably that peer pressure thing again. For the week around Christmas, they don Santa suits but don't go as far as stick-on beards.
Our driver was a jolly chap, and despite his lack of weight, I think he would make a fine Santa. He looked young, but perhaps that was just the jolly Chinese suit.

He had only driven a taxi for 8 months. Before that he had worked for thirty years and a company before it had hit hard times and he had to leave. Luckily, he had earned his pension, so he wasn't that upset. It was a shock, but it was possible to move on.

Move on to a job where he gets to drive and wear funny suits. It sounds a little like a regular salaryman.

Friday, February 1, 2008

Kojin Taxi

Two kojintakushi in one day. That was a first. The term translates literally as an 'individual taxi'. After working ten years for a taxi company, it's possible to apply for a kojin taxi license. That gives the driver freedom over his working hours and a higher commission. Generally, they still work through a dispatch center.

The first guy had worked for 20 years. He works late at night in general and takes weekends off - Saturdays and Sundays. It sounds like a relatively civilized life. The company drivers work crazy shifts, changing from night shift to day shift twice a week and engaging in manic 23 hour shifts. Nothing like independence really.

He does pretty well, it seems. Tonight was Friday and that's his busiest night. He makes an average of 40,000 yen uriage on a Friday night. His car was in good shape. I don't know the first thing about cars, but it seemed like a fancy one. I asked him if he has ever gone overseas. This is a rather obvious question, and one of my standards. It's a good follow-up to the almost invariable 'what country are you from'. In general, I ask it as a mild provokation. Most taxi drivers haven't been overseas except for their homeymoon in Hawaii. That doesn't really count. He had been overseas. In fact, his son works as a pilot in the United States in Utah. I can imagine him spraying crops and batting off over-eager Mormons. The father goes to America once a year. He doesn't like it much. The reason is the food. They don't know how to cook well in America. They make big plates, but Japan is the only country with really good food, don't you think.

The second driver thought that 40,000 was brilliant and reckoned that the first guy was working really hard. Of course, the second driver was annoyed because I was going in the opposite direction to his house and he wanted to be heading home at 1am. That's early on a Friday night.
I asked him for a receipt because I've vowed never to lose things in taxis again. He said that his customers never forgot anything because he always checked thoroughly. He was right. After passing me my guitar, mandolin, amp, amp stand, several bags of cords and other miscellaneous stuff, he left another brown bag on the ground. It was only when he had driven off that I realized that it was a bag with a towel and other personal things in there. I'll call him tomorrow to tell him that I've got his bag. I'm glad that I got a receipt.